Hike – Mt Mitake and Mt Hinode 御岳山と日の出山

24 10 2009

Quick Overview

View from Mt Hinode

View from Mt Hinode

In the Oku-tama 奥多摩 region, Mt Mitake 御岳山 is a sacred mountain.  You can catch a cable car up most of the way, and at the top is Musashi Mitake Shrine 武蔵御岳神社 and treasure house.  From Mt Mitake 御岳山 it’s an easy hike to Mt Hinode 日の出山, which offers views of the Tokyo skyline.  From Mt Hinode 日の出山, its downhill to the station.  An easy hike, suitable for families if you just want to do the Mt Mitake 御岳山 section of the hike, and with many shops and restaurants around Mt Mitake 御岳山 (but not further on).

Distance: not including bus and cable car -11km
Duration: 3-5 hours
Difficulty: easy to slightly challenging (lots of stairs)
Season:  Suitable all year, but use your discretion in the winter months
Starting point:  Mitake Station 御嶽駅
Finishing point:  Hinatawada Station 日向和田駅

Maps

A map of the hike  can also be viewed at GPSies

There are many different and interesting hikes in this area, so I recommend you buy a map.  The Mapple 山と高原地図 series number 23 map is of the Okutama region, and is available on Amazon.co.jp.  Note, this map is in Japanese, but does include some English and furigana.

The Hike

From Mitake Station 御嶽駅 head out the only exit and turn right.  Not far down the road on the opposite side is a bus stop.  From here you can catch a Nishi Tokyo Bus 西東京バス to Cable Shita ケーブル下, the Takimoto Station 滝本駅 of the Mitake Tozan Railway 御岳登山鉄道.

Head up the road from the Cable Shita ケーブル下 bus stop, and you’ll see the cable car station on the right.  If you want to hike all the way up, just continue following the road.  To the top cable car station by foot should take about an hour.

At the top cable car station is a few shops and an area to sit and have a rest.  To start walking towards the summit of Mt Mitake 御岳山, take the path to the left, also known as Main Street.  Just before Main Street is a map showing you the route to the shrine.  Following the path along, after a short while you will enter a village.  Keep following the main path upwards between houses, shops and hotels, and you should get to the steps leading to Musashi Mitake shrine 武蔵御岳神社 within 20 minutes.

Map of Mt Mitake

Map of Mt Mitake

A quick trip up the stairs to the shrine will have you at the summit of Mt Mitake 御岳山.  The shrine itself was a place of worship popular with Samurai, so just down from the main building is a treasury building holding a couple of lovely examples of armor (entry 300yen).

Musashi Mitake Shrine

Musashi Mitake Shrine

Please also note, the toilets around the shrine and village are the last until just before the end of the trail.

To hike to Mt Hinode 日の出山, walk back down the stairs, and past the shops in front of the shrine.  Instead of turning back the way you came, take a right turn and follow the path through the village.  It can be a little confusing walking through the village, so keep an eye out for signs pointing to Mt Hinode 日の出山.  Once you pass the village you’ll be walking along a ridge line for about an hour.

Along this ridge are a few alternatives, but if you keep to the left and head up hill you will arrive at the summit of Mt Hinode 日の出山.  There are great views from Mt Hinode 日の出山, looking back towards Mt Mitake 御岳山 and the Tokyo skyline.  There is also another rest stop and tables for picnic lunches (but no shops).

When you want to continue on, descend down the other side of the summit.  Once again there are alternative paths, but initially stick to the left and follow the signs that point to Hinatawada 日向和田.  Walking down through the cedar you will pass a road, and eventually a small shrine full of Maneki Cats (lucky cats).  From this point the path will become a little steeper, zig-zagging back and forth, with tall steps.

Towards the end of the hike you will walk alongside a golf course.  It takes about 2 hours to reach here from Mt Hinode 日の出山.  Where the trail joins the road is a portable toilet.  Keep following the road until you reach the traffic lights.  You’ll have passed a Plum tree park on the right along the way.  At the lights turn left, and then at the next set of traffic lights turn right.  You can follow this road along, across a bridge, until you reach the train lines.  Hinatawada Station 日向和田駅 is just a little down the road on the right.

To and From

As always, the following routes are just recommendations.  Please use Hyperdia or Jorudan’s Train Route Finder to find the most suitable route for you!

From Shinjuku 新宿, catch the JR Chuo line 中央線 to Tachikawa 立川 and change to the JR Ome line 青梅線 towards Okutama 奥多摩.  It should take about 90 minutes and costs 890yen, but you might need to change trains at Ome Station 青梅駅 to go further on to Mitake Station 御嶽駅.  Trains run regularly on these lines.

From Mitake Station 御嶽駅 catch the Nishi Tokyo Bus 西東京バス to Cable Shita ケーブル下 bus stop.  Buses leave at least once or twice an hour from Mitake Station 御嶽駅 and cost 270yen for the 10 minute ride.

The Mitake Tozan Railway 御岳登山鉄道 cable car leaves at least once every half hour and costs 570yen.

From Hinatawada Station 日向和田駅, catch the JR Ome line 青梅線 to Tachikawa 立川 (again you might need to change at Ome Station 青梅駅), and then the JR Chuo line 中央線 to Shinjuku 新宿.  This should take about 75 minutes and costs 780yen.

Links

Mt Mitake Tozan Railway http://www.mitaketozan.co.jp/english/index.html includes cable car timetable and map of Mt Mitake

Mt Mitake Tourist website (Japanese) http://mitakesan.com/index.html

PDF Time Table of Nishi Tokyo Bus to Cable Shita (Japanese) http://www.nisitokyobus.co.jp/data/topics/2009/lib/objects/mitake%20kable%20r%20090722.pdf

My Flickr photo set from Mt Mitake and Mt Hinode http://www.flickr.com/photos/michelelisa/sets/72157622492689516/

Map of hike on GPSies http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=njychfygcovmfwsv

Useful Kanji

Mt Mitake 御岳山
Mt Hinode 日の出山
Okutama 奥多摩
Musashi Mitake Shrine 武蔵御岳神社
Mitake Station 御嶽駅
Hinatawada Station 日向和田駅
Nishi Tokyo Bus 西東京バス
Cable Shita bus stop ケーブル下
Takimoto Station 滝本駅
Mitake Tozan Railway 御岳登山鉄道
Hinatawada 日向和田
Shinjuku 新宿
Chuo Line 中央線
Tachikawa 立川
Ome Line 青梅線
Ome Station 青梅駅





Hike – Mt Tsukuba 筑波山

14 10 2009

Quick Overview

Mt Tsukuba

Mt Tsukuba

Within a couple of hours from Tokyo by train and bus, this twin-peaked hike is a nice and easy day trip, suitable for families.  Mt Tsukuba offers a lovely view of the Kanto plain, and occasionally Mt Fuji.  Facilities include restaurants, a cable car and rope way.

Distance: 5km
Duration: 2-3 hours
Difficulty: easy to slightly challenging (some rocky bits, and lots of stairs)
Season:  Suitable all year
Starting point:  Tsutsujigaoka bus stop つつじヶ丘
Finishing point:  Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi bus stop 筑波山神社入口

Maps

A map of the hike can also be viewed at GPSies

The Mapple 山と高原地図 map series number 20, which includes Mt Tsukuba, can be bought on Amazon.co.jp. Note, these maps are in Japanese, but have some English and furigana.

The Hike

You can hike from either Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口 or Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘, however this report starts from the later.  From Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘 you can follow a trail to the summit of Mt Nyotai 女体山, across the ridge to Mt Nantai 男体山, and then down to Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口.  Regardless of which mountain you climb first, there are a lot of stairs, but if you prefer to climb up rocks rather than down, climbing Mt Nyotai 女体山 is recommended.

Starting from Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘, the bus stops in the middle of the parking lot for the ropeway.  This ropeway goes to the peak of Mt Nyotai 女体山, and costs 600¥ one way, or 1070¥ return.  To hike, walk past the shops, ropeway station, and up the trail next to the giant toad. This is the Otatsuishi course おたつ石コース.  From the car park you can see a fair section of the trail leading up.  The first half is quite open, so bring a hat on sunny days.  It is also possible to hike to Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口 using the trail to the left at the trail head (the Mukaeba course 迎場コース).

Tsutsujigaoka trail head

Tsutsujigaoka trail head

After about 40 minutes of some pretty average hiking up stairs, you will reach a rest stop at the ‘Site of Benkei Cha-ya’ 弁慶茶屋.  From here take the path to the right to climb to the summit of Mt Nyotai 女体山.  The path to the left leads to Tsukubasan-jinga Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口(these paths are both part of the Shirakumobashi course 白雲橋コース).  Continuing up the mountain, from the rest stop, the path becomes steeper and rockier.  It also features a number of interesting rock formations.

Some of these rock formations are a little abstract, but interesting none the less.  A few of the rock formations are ‘Benkei returns seven times’, Takamagahara (a small shrine on a tall rock), ‘Mother’s womb’, ‘Departing and arriving ship’, Hokuto, and ‘Big Buddha’.

After approximately another 40 minutes you will reach the summit for Mt Nyotai 女体山.  There is a small shrine and a wonderful panoramic view of the Kanto plain.  On clear days you can see the Tokyo skyline and Mt Fuji.

Summit of Mt Nyotai

Summit of Mt Nyotai

From here, head down the other path.  You will come to a clearing with two paths.  The one on the left leads to the ropeway, and the other leads to Mt Nantai 男体山.  On the way to Mt Nantai 男体山 you will pass a couple more rock formations, the famous Toad Rock and Wagtail rock, and a few radio/TV towers.

Fork in the path - to the left the ropeway station, to the right Mt Nantai

Fork in the path - to the left the ropeway station, to the right Mt Nantai

Shops and Cablecar station with Mt Nantai in the background

Shops and Cablecar station with Mt Nantai in the background

Just before Mt Nantai 男体山 there are a number of little shops, the cable car station, and toilets.  These are good places to get some lunch.

Opposite the cable car station are stairs leading upwards, follow these if you want to go to the summit of Mt Nantai 男体山, although the view from this summit is poor compared to Mt Nyotai 女体山.  There is also a nature trail that circles around the top of Mt Nantai 男体山, accessible on the left behind the restaurants above the first flight of steps.  This circular trail takes about 20 minutes, is very easy, and exits next to the toilets in the cable car/shop area.

To descend Mt Nantai 男体山 take the path on the right of the cable car station.  If you choose to use the cable car instead, the cost is 570¥ one way, or 1020¥ return.  The path, known as the Miyukigahara course 御幸ヶ原コース, leads all the way down to Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口, running mostly parallel with the cable car lines.  When you reach the bottom the path branches out, but if you continue heading down on the right you will get to the cable car station.  On the left is Tsukubasan Shrine 筑波山神社, which is worth a quick look.

Heading through the shrine complex, you will pass the main building, a gate, an old wooden bridge and a stone tori-gate before finally arriving at the road.  Follow this road down until you pass through the big red tori-gate.  On the right here is the Tourist Information Center (a bit late to use, but you can pick up a free map in English here).  On the opposite side of the road is a car park, toilet and a souvenir store.  The bus back to the Tsukuba Center つくばセンター leaves from this car park.

Tourist Information Center

Tourist Information Center

Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi bus stop and shops

Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi bus stop and shops

To and From

As always, the following routes are just recommendations.  Please use Hyperdia or Jorudan’s Train Route Finder to find the most suitable route for you!

From Akihabara 秋葉原 you can catch the Tsukuba Express つくばエクスプレス line to the Tsukuba Center TXつくば駅/つくばセンター.  The rapid train takes 45 minutes, and costs 1150¥.  Trains leave regularly.

From the train station take Exit A4, and turn left to the bus terminal.  Currently the shuttle bus to Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口/Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘 leaves from Bus Stop 1 every hour on the hour between 8am and 3:30pm on weekdays, and also on every half hour on weekends.  The shuttle bus costs 700¥ to Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口, and 850¥ to Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘(40 and 50 minutes respectively).  Make sure you can catch the last bus back to the Tsukuba Center, leaving Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口 at 5:10pm.

Check the Tsukuba-san Website for current bus time tables (all in Japanese) http://www.kantetsu.co.jp/bus/tsukuba_shuttle/tsukuba_shuttle_index.html

There is also a discount ticket that includes return fare on the Tsukuba Express, return shuttle bus, and return cable car or ropeway for 4300¥ from Akihabara.  The ticket is valid over 2 days and available at Tsukuba Express stations.

A JR Bus also runs from Tokyo Station Yaesu South Exit to the Tsukuba Center and takes 65 minutes.  The cost is 1150¥ and the bus leaves every 20 minutes.

Links

Mt Tsukuba official website (Japanese) http://www.tsukubasan.co.jp/

Mt Tsukuba Tourist website (Japanese) http://www.mt-tsukuba.com/ (also includes a map of all hiking courses on the mountain)

Mt Tsukuba Shuttle Bus website (Japanese) http://www.kantetsu.co.jp/bus/tsukuba_shuttle/tsukuba_shuttle_index.html

My Flickr photo set from Mt Tsukuba http://www.flickr.com/photos/michelelisa/sets/72157622368085803/

Map of hike on GPSies http://www.gpsies.com/map.do?fileId=wywylzdtcntmkryi

Useful Kanji

Mt Tsukuba 筑波山
Tsutsujigaoka つつじヶ丘
Tsukubasan-jinja Iriguchi 筑波山神社入口
Mt Nyotai 女体山
Mt Nantai 男体山
Otatsuishi Course おたつ石コース
Mukaeba Course 迎場コース
Benkei Cha-ya 弁慶茶屋
Shirakumobashi Course 白雲橋コース
Miyukigahara Course 御幸ヶ原コース
Tsukuba Center TXつくば駅/つくばセンター





Mt Fuji

14 10 2009
Mt Fuji

Mt Fuji,
originally uploaded by michelelisa.

New photos from my 19km hike last sunday from Mt Takao to Mt Jimba. The weather was lovely, with a view of Mt Fuji on one side, and the Tokyo skyline on the other.





Panoramas from Kamakura

9 10 2009
Panoramas from Kamakura 1

Panoramas from Kamakura 1,
originally uploaded by michelelisa.

I’ve just uploaded the two panoramas I took in the garden at Kamakura, go check them out on my flickr! I really loved this garden, it was kinda like a wild Japanese garden, which is pretty rare. Usually gardens are very controlled, and while parts of this were planned, it seemed to have been let run (partly) wild. Lovely!





The Life Conspiracy

9 10 2009

wow I fail at updating my blog!  As I mentioned before, I am working on a write up about Mt Tsukuba, but I could at least blog about whats going on too right??

Anyway.  Almost directly after my last post, my school had a group of students from New Zealand come on exchange for 12 days.  We had a lot of trouble finding host families, so I had one of their teachers stay with me (in my double shoe box), which was really good because I could also participate with them in their activities.

Each year the Kiwi trip always happens at the same time so that they can see the school’s cultural festival.  However this year things were a bit different.  The festival had been changed from 2 days to 1 day due to swine flu being everywhere in Japan at the moment.  Then, late on Thursday afternoon (Friday is a preparation day) it was announced it was totally cancelled because 4 classes in the whole school had been sent home with the flu.

Which meant that instead of 3 days of culture festival, 2 days at Nikko, and 2 days with their host families, we had a whole week off, only broken by those 2 days at Nikko.

It actually turned out to be really really fun.  On the Friday we had some problems with one of the Kiwi students (she was homesick), so we weren’t able to do much.  Beth (the teacher I was hosting) and I went for a walk at Soka, which has some historical significance in being a trade area.  And then that evening there was a big drinking party followed by karaoke.

Soka River Walk

Soka River Walk

The next day, all the adults from NZ, myself and another teacher went to Mt Mitake to do an easy hike.  Mt Mitake is a lot of fun.  We caught a cable car to the top, visited the shine, and then walked over a ridge to Mt Hinode.  Mt Hinode is great, because on a clear day you can see Tokyo in the distance.  And we could even see a little of Mt Fuji.  However, it’s not easy hiking while hungover…

On top of Mt Hinode

Mt Mitake Shrine

Sunday, the whole group of us went to Tobu Zoo, which is very close by my house.  It actually isn’t just a zoo, it also includes a small theme park, with a brilliant rollercoaster.  Suffice to say, the kids had a great time!

Monday and Tuesday was a pre-arranged trip to Nikko.  We went to Edo Wonderland, which is a village of Edo-era buildings and attractions.  I had been there before, and its okay, but it’s also something I think you could skip on a trip to Japan.  We also went to Tobu World Square, which I had wanted to go to for a long time.  It’s a park full of miniatures, with the theme ‘Travel the world in just one hour!’.  I loved it and highly recommend it!  After that we also went to Toshogu (I think it was my 5th or 6th time), which was pretty unremarkable (see my previous post).

Tower Bridge from Tobu World Square

Wednesday was mostly spent shopping, afterall, what’s a vacation without shopping? And Thursday was once again hiking!  This time we went to Kamakura, home of the biggest outside Buddha in Japan.  Our Kamakura hike was pretty easy, and included a lot of shrines and temples.  The most interesting ones were Zeniarai Benten, where you wash your money and it multiplies (and it really did work for me!), and another temple, of which it’s name escapes me, with a lovely garden.

Garden in Kamakura

Garden in Kamakura

After that it was back to school until the New Zealanders left.  But being back at school has also had its challenges.  We pretty much had to jump straight into preparing our classes for their exams, which are happening this week and next.  AND yesterday a major typhoon passed over Honshu, so school was cancelled for the day.  It was nice to sleep in, however, it did throw a bit of a spanner into the works.

And now it’s mostly back to normal.

Until something else comes up…





in which michele remembers *why* she loves Japan

15 09 2009

There’s something about hiking that brings out the best in people.  I’m not sure if it’s because you are surrounded by nature, or if its because you can recognise something similar inside yourself and other hikers, regardless of fitness levels, but people are friendlier on the trail.

Here’s my experiences on Sunday, when I went hiking by myself in Tsukuba.  Within a space of four hours I had 3 encounters that had me smiling, and remembering why I love Japan.

Firstly, while resting at a way point, one lady came over to me and offered me some cut nashi pear.  It was a really simple exchange, she just came over and said ‘Please’ while offering me the fruit.  I said thanks and took it, and then she left.  But what a lovely random act of kindness.  I am also convinced that fruit tastes better when you are hiking.  Nothing like exercise to make healthy foods taste great!

Next, on the way down the mountain I ran into a group of guys from a university.  One of the older guys in the group was trying to speak English with me, which happens kinda frequently in Japan, however it didn’t feel like he was trying for the sake of practicing, but more for the sake of conversing with me.  He was rather impressed with the time I’d been in Japan, and soon realised my Japanese was better than his English, but then he made the younger boys practice introductions with me.  They were all pretty cute (as in action, not physical appearance… mind you, some were cute in both ways….) and they all said ‘Hello’ again when they passed me later.

Finally, when I was close to the end of my hike, a group that passed me earlier as they were going up the mountain over took me coming down (so, Im not very fast… or fit…).  These guys were also university students, but they had great english.  They walked with me the remaining way (about 15 min) and we had a lovely conversation about nothing in particular.    I was particularly impressed that they managed to do the mountain (up and down) in an hour, and wearing sandals…

Of course, in Japan hikers are polite and courteous.  Almost everyone you pass will say ‘Konnichi wa!’.  People passing you will say either ‘Sumimasen’ or ‘Osaki ni’, excusing themselves or excusing themselves for going first respectively.  And then when you let someone move through a narrow way before you do they say their thanks, or excuse themselves again.  But its the people who will go out of the way to have a conversation with you ‘just becuase’ that really make me love hiking in Japan.

On top of Mt Tsukuba

and for those intrested, I will do a write up on hiking Mt Tsukuba soon!





ACK!

10 09 2009

ACK! It’s been over a month!?! Boy you must be thinking I’m slack. But I have a good reason, really!

Um… okay….

Maybe not that great. But yeah, things have been happening to conspire against me blogging. I think summer holidays do that to me. Either I’m incredibly busy or sleeping. However, that’s all over now, and I will endeavor to stick to Goal #1. Both Goal #1s…

My school’s summer holidays are from about mid-July until September. I always have the best intentions to spend as much of my vacations travelling around. Last year I managed to go to Kyoto with a friend, travelled to Aizu Wakamatsu and Sendai for the Tanabata festival, climbed Mt Fuji, visited my family and friends in Australia, then travelled with my parents to Hakodate, Sapporo and Furano in Hokkaido. It was a very successful vacation! A number of these trips were part of my ‘Things I MUST do in Japan’ list, so I was really happy. This year I intended to do a number of things from that list too, however time and money constraints limited what I was able to achieve.

As I mentioned in my last few updates, I did go to Hakone and Nikko, but apart from that I didn’t have the chance to travel much in Japan. Some of the events I did manage to go to however included the Sumida River Fireworks and Summer Sonic.

Japan is very big on summer festivals, particularly fireworks. Sumida River is the biggest and oldest firework festival in Tokyo. The fireworks themselves go for about 90 minutes, but it is near impossible to get a good vantage point unless you reserve your spot some insane time in the morning. That being said, it’s still an experience going. Festivals are a lot of fun, with people in yukata, food stalls, and a fun atmosphere. However, I think next year I will go to my local city’s festival instead, because I actually want to see the fireworks.

In recent years, as well as summer festivals, summer music festivals have become popular in Japan. Summer Sonic, which is held in Chiba and Osaka, and Fuji Rock, in Niigata, are the two biggest. I really want to go to Fuji Rock, however this year the line up wasn’t great, and Niigata is quite a way away. So I went to one day of Summer Sonic instead (it’s a 3 day festival). Although there weren’t any acts that I was dying to see, I did enjoy Dragon Ash, Phoenix, Mercury Rev, the Silent Disco, and Nine Inch Nails(totally surprised me, but NIN were the best act of the day). Overall the day was more fun than I expected.

Apart from those couple of events, there wasn’t much else to my vacation. I did spend a day at the ‘seaside’ (or bayside to be precise). Odaiba is an island of reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay. You can catch a boat from Asakusa along the Sumida River to Hinode Pier, and from there across to Odaiba a ferry. During July and August a special life sized statue of a Gundam was built to promote ‘Green’ Tokyo. I have no idea what Green Tokyo was about, but the statue was very very cool. Every once in a while it would play theme music, move its head, and steam, which was pretty cool. But what really impressed me was the details, things like the decals, and hydraulics (fake of course), which made it look like it could have just walked off its stand. Too bad they are taking it down. I think it would have been a very good tourist attraction. Anyway.

While I was in Odaiba I took the time to go to Miraikan or MeSci as it’s known in English. It’s a museum that is supposed to ‘share’ innovative science. There are a lot of interactive displays, and it’s well set out and very funky, but I was disappointed that there didn’t seem to be that much. I suppose when I think of a science museum with interactive displays I think of basic sciences. There’s not many ways you can have a display of the International Space Station and make it interactive. And driving a robot remotely just isn’t my thing. However, the one exhibit that was really cool was the internet display, designed to show kids how information is sent around the internet. Using black and white balls as bits you try to send a word to another input station, but the balls have to go along all these ramps and through big windy things. Very cool. Overall, even though I found Miraikan to be a bit dull, young kids would like it.

Oh, and I finished off my day in Odaiba by conquering my fear of heights and walking across the Rainbow Bridge. Got some great pictures of Tokyo too, check them out!

For the rest of my vacation I knew money was going to be sparse, so I took up an offer from my company to teach at an English summer camp. The camp was a lot of fun, and really wasn’t very hard work. I got to meet 3 other teachers from my company who were lovely ladies, and my group of kids was friendly and tried hard. I think the most enjoyable part of the camp was the BBQ/bonfire/ghost walk evening. We ate a heap of meat, got to light small fireworks, dance around, and freak out the kids (we were the monsters)(and yes, I am kinda sadistic).

The final part of my vacation was two weeks spent in Australia. Two weeks seems like a long time on paper, but it really flew. I visited my grandfather, aunt, uncle and cousin, and also managed to catch up with a few friends. I went shopping for clothes (I just can’t buy pants/underwear in Japan), multiple doctor/dentist appointments and ate many foods I missed. It was really wonderful to go back home, I’ve been missing it a lot lately. And believe me, it was very sad to leave. It was also very distressing to get my credit card bill (4 days of shopping, and averaging $500 a day… you do the math) but at least I have clothes now.

And now it’s September and it’s back to school. Admittedly it’s only the first week of school, but things have been slow so far. I’m expecting to get slammed next week. But I would have to say the most interesting thing about being back at school is the ‘measures’ the school is taking in regards to Swine Flu… It’s not even flu season yet!?! Regardless, if a kid comes down with a fever during class time, we have to give them a mask, send them to the teacher’s room, and then to the nurse’s office. And on top of that, the school has decided to limit the Culture Festival in a few weeks time. Now, if you’ve ever watched a school-based anime, Culture Festival is when all the kids open a maid café or make a haunted house in their classroom. People from outside the school (family/friends/complete strangers) can come and look around, etc. This year however, the school has limited the festival to one day, no food will be sold, and only families that have returned their RSVP’s can come. I can tell you now a lot of the kids will be disappointed.

But such is life in a society prone to panic.

Did I ever tell you about how natto sold out when a TV show said eating it every day was good for dieting??? Crazy group mentality….

*edit – apparently the swine flu panic isn’t over reacting, at the moment about 12 kids from the school have contracted it…. great….





visiting with the guardian of peace keeping in Japan

27 07 2009

Last weekend was a long weekend, with Monday being Marine day. So with three days off, traveling to a place like Nikko is ideal. Nikko is the home of Toshogu Shrine, the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu, but also has over 1000 years of Shinto and Buddhist history, beautiful scenery, and hot springs (^-^)v

My friend Reiko and I had planned on going to Nikko for some time. Despite living most of her life in Japan, she had only been to Nikko once. And despite our best intentions, plans weren’t finalized until the day before. Nikko is seriously one of the best places to take a day trip if you are visiting Tokyo. It’s really gorgeous, and has so much natural beauty, history and culture.

If you plan to stay overnight in Nikko, it is best to chose a hotel, pension or ryokan that includes dinner. Not many restaurants are open in the evening. Previously I have stayed at the Turtle Inn, popular with foreign tourists thanks to Lonely Planet, which is a lovely place to stay, however this time Reiko found a pension for us to stay in.  We stayed at L’ESCALE, a charming French restaurant and pension in the Kirifuri Highlands.  I cannot rave enough about this place!

L’ESCALE, as i mentioned, is French themed.  Dinner is a French five course meal, including salad, soup, fish or vegetable dish, main dish, and dessert.  All meals are cooked by the owner and his staff, and it seems to be a family run operation.  The owner speaks some English, so people who don’t speak Japanese should be comfortable.  The rooms are large and comfortable, and the rates are quite reasonable, and include dinner and breakfast.  It is a hike from the station, but you can catch a taxi for less than 800yen.  And it is also within walking distance to the World Heratige site (ie, Toshogu Shrine), and the Nikko Beer factory (which made Reiko very happy).

Unfortunately we had a very late start on Saturday, and didn’t make it to Nikko until late afternoon, so we went directly to the pension and had dinner.  Sunday was a lot more active.  After leaving the pension we walked to the World Heritage site, and along the way we passed a horse riding place, the Nikko Beer factory (where we stopped for a drink), and a fishing place.

Nikko Beer

Nikko Beer

Toshogu Shrine

Toshogu Shrine

Eventually we arrived at Toshogu Shrine, and bought a multipass for 1300yen, which gave us admission into Toshogu, the tomb of Ieyasu, and Honji-do.  Toshogu Shrine is a splendid place.  It has many elaborate carving, beautiful paintings, and gold leaf everywhere!  At the time of rebuilding (originally it was much smaller) it cost billions of yen, and it really shows.

Nikkos Famous Monkeys

Nikko's Famous Monkeys

Within Toshogu one of the first things you’ll notice are the carvings.  ‘Sanzaru’ is probably the most famous carving, and in English is known as ‘Hear no evil, speak no evil, see no evil’.  These three monkeys are one of the first graphical representations of the phase, but on the same building you will also notice a number of other monkey carvings.  In fact all the monkeys represent all stages of life.

Some of the other carvings can be rather strange in appearance.  The artists hadn’t actually seen many of the animals in real life and had to rely on their imaginations.  Opposite the monkeys is a prime example of what an elephant *doesn’t* look like.  But many of the other animals are mythical beasts like dragons and kirin, so I guess we can forgive them.

Nikko Elephants

Nikko Elephants

When entering the tomb of Ieyasu, above head is a small carving of a sleeping cat – ‘nemuri-neko’.  This carving is also very famous with the Japanese, as a symbol of the peace that the Tokugawas bought to Japan.  And then it’s a climb of over 200 steps to get to the tomb.  It can be pretty taxing on a hot and humid day

Ieyasus Tomb

Ieyasu's Tomb

Nemuri-Neko

Nemuri-Neko

Inside the Honji-do the ceiling is painted with a large dragon.  When standing under the dragon’s head if you clap the sound will reverberate, and only in that spot due to the acoustics of the room.  Pretty smart if you ask me.

Its easy to spend most of the day at Toshogu, there is a lot to look at inside and outside the shrine.  When we finally stopped for lunch (pretty late at 3pm), we walked down to the main road to find some Yuba ryori – Tofu skin dishes.  Nikko, as well as Kyoto, is famous for Yuba.  Its kinda plain in taste, but with some soy sauce I think its a yummy and healthy dish.

By the time we finished lunch it was quite late, and in Nikko many places close at 5 or earlier, so we found our way back to the pension to relax before dinner (which was really really good!).

On Monday we went to a glass blowing factory to make our own blown glass tumblers.  I have to admit this was a lot more fun than I thought it would be.  Unfortunately it seems they only speak Japanese at Glass Studio Punty, but the staff really do most of the work in making your creation so its not so hard.  And if you aren’t in Nikko the next day they will send your creation to you by mail.

Making glass tumblers

Making glass tumblers

After overheating in front of the kilns, we made our way to the Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park.  On the grounds here are buildings that have been used by the Imperial family as a summer villa since 1899.  The actual buildings weren’t all built at the same time, and some were moved to Nikko from other places, but its very interesting to see Meiji era architecture that combines tradition with western styles.  Much of the villa is carpeted, but still very Japanese in design.  And the gardens were also very beautiful.

Tamozawa Imperial Villa

Tamozawa Imperial Villa

Looking outside through a circular window

Looking outside through a circular window

So after spending the afternoon there we had to make our way back to Tokyo and back to ‘real life’.  It was a lovely, relaxing weekend overall!





Of weddings, clouds, and statues

24 07 2009

A couple of  weekends ago (see, I’m already behind…) I was invited to a friend’s second wedding party in Yokohama.

I find Japanese weddings to be very different to what weddings I have attended in Australia. Firstly, in Japan they hold a number of parties. The actual legal wedding occurs at your local ward office, and is really just like going to sign the document. Then you have wedding parties.

Most couples have at least 2 wedding parties. The first being a wedding ceremony and formal reception. The second party is more like a reception, but the couple would have had a “costume” change, and more guests would be invited. The guests have to pay for the party, around the order of ¥5000 or upwards, but this will probably include food and drink. It’s also probable that there will be some sort of game either to get to know the other guests or for prizes. These 2nd parties only last about 2 hours, and then afterwards guests will either head off to the next party, an after party, or home.

Oh, and did I mention, its also customary for guests to wear black or dark colours to a wedding in Japan???  Particularly if you go to the first party.

All in all it must be an exhausting day for the couple, with sooo many events to attend. Personally I do prefer the western style of ceremony and one reception, just seems a whole lot easier to me, because Japanese weddings are such a big production!

Anyway, the party I attended a few weekends ago was a lot of fun, and it was good to see a lot of my old colleagues. Because it was in Yokohama I opted to stay there overnight, it’s about an hour and a half from where I live, and then the following day went out further to Hakone to enjoy some hiking and onsen.

Mikas Wedding Party in Yokohama

Mika's Wedding Party in Yokohama

Alas my Hakone plans were a bit too ambitious for someone who was out late the night before, not to mention the weather wasn’t agreeable either.  Hakone, being in the mountains, is often in the clouds.  On a good day you can see Mt Fuji from Lake Ashi.

Lake Ashi and Mt Fuji

Lake Ashi and Mt Fuji

And on a bad day, well, you can’t see much at all…

Lake Ashi in cloud

Lake Ashi in cloud

On the Monday I wanted to do an 11km walk around Lake Ashi, and then hike back down the mountains to Hakone-Yumoto. I did start the walk around Lake Ashi, but about a third if the way around clouds set in and I decided it was best to turn back. So instead I headed back to my hotel, B&B Pension Hakone. My hotel was a very pleasant surprise, very cheap, but included breakfast and a discount ticket to a nearby onsen (Mori no Yu, part of Yunessun). So that evening I rested my sore muscles in the hot spring.

The next day my plan was to hike from Gora station to Tsukahara station before heading home. But again my exhaustion got the better of me (in the end I did walk over 20km in the two days) and I went to the Hakone Open Air Museum instead.

The museum was very interesting. I had been meaning to go there for a long time and I’m happy to have been now. It’s a museum dedicated to displaying statues outdoors. But for me it was very interesting to learn my own tastes in sculpture. It seems I tend towards shiny things and the human form. And not abstract sculptures, which surprised me because I tend towards more modern artwork.

Anyway, I didn’t take many photos, becuase the signs all said no photos.  But then walking about I saw many people using cameras, so here’s a couple of the sculptures I liked –

Shiny Ball thingy

Shiny Ball thingy

Disembodied Head

Disembodied Head

By the way, for anyone interested in hiking in Hakone, this site is a great resource if you don’t mind wading through the Japanese on their maps – Hakone-Zenzan.  The hikes I was planning to do were #1, #4 (which doesn’t have a map, but from Hakone Machi just keep following the closest road to the lake going left, and you cant miss the trail head), and something in the area of #18. I used the Mapple Hakone hiking map to plan my hikes.  (One day when I actually do the hikes, I’ll do a proper write up…)





Happy New Blog!!!

16 07 2009

It’s out with my old Xanga blog and in with a new WordPress one.  After 5 years on Xanga I’ve decided I want a ‘proper’ website, and this is my first step.

The aim is to write a website that has a purpose, and so, it will follow the themes of hiking, walks, flowers, food and my general life.  And to start with I would like to state some resolutions (new blog resolutions??)

  1. Lose weight… opps, no, wrong kind of resolution…

Lets try that again.

  1. Write once a week
  2. Write interesting entries, which for me is a hard goal.  My writing is quite bland, but that won’t improve without practice right?
  3. Include multimedia, photos, videos, etc
  4. Write entries for hikes, walks, flower information, etc, as if they were for a guide book, so that people can find them useful!
  5. Eventually, I suppose I should also write in Japanese… practice and all that….  we’ll see.

So thats enough to start with.  Wish me luck!